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What should I check before I approve bulk?

What buyers should check before bulk approval

Approving bulk is the last inexpensive decision in a programme. A short list of checks makes sure it is the right one.

Anmol JournalGuide

Guide 5 of 10

Topic
Quality
Reading time
2 minutes
Sections
05
Figures
02

01Start from the counter sample

The counter sample is what bulk will be measured against, so check it as if it were the first piece off the line: fabric, colour, trims, labels, measurements and finish, all at once.

Approve it in writing and keep your own sealed copy. If a question comes up mid-production, both sides then compare the same garment.

02Measurements across the size range

Fit is approved in one size; bulk is made in all of them. Ask for measurements of the graded sizes, or a size set, and check the points that matter most to your customer: chest, length, waist and sleeve.

Read the tolerances too. Plus or minus one centimetre means something different on a sleeve than on a chest.

03Fabric, colour and trims

Bulk fabric should match the approved sample in shade, handle and weight. Shade is best judged side by side, in daylight or a light box, against a physical standard rather than a screen.

Every trim on the sample, from buttons to labels, should be the bulk trim, not a stand-in used for speed.

Girls Cotton Woven Tie-Dye Frock
Fig. 01Girls woven tie-dye frock in cotton. With a dyed effect like this, agree before bulk how much variation from piece to piece is acceptable.View style 986301

Plus or minus one centimetre means something different on a sleeve than on a chest.

04Embroidery and print

Check artwork size, colour and placement on a strike-off or on the counter sample. Placement is measured from a fixed point, such as the shoulder or the centre front, so it can be repeated on every size.

Embroidery adds weight and stiffness. Check that the fabric under it lies flat and that the reverse will not irritate the skin, especially in kidswear.

Girls Cotton Floral Printed Dress
Fig. 02Girls cotton floral printed dress: print scale and colour are judged against the approved sample.View style 172851

05Packing, labels and quantities

Confirm the label set, the fold, the polybag, the carton marks and the pack ratios before bulk, not at packing. Late changes hold finished goods at the end of the line.

Finally, confirm the order quantities by style, colour and size, and the delivery window. Everything after approval is planned from these numbers.

Start with what you have.

Send a tech pack, a sketch or a reference garment, with your target quantity and delivery window.