Skip to main content

How is a bulk order cut and sewn?

One style, many lines, one standard.

04 · What it isCutting, stitching and finishing for the full order quantity, from the first lay to the pressed garment.
An overlock station with thread cones on a sewing floor, operators working at their machines behind it

A stitching line. Representative photograph.

Input, process, output.

What arrives at cut, sew & bulk production, what happens to it, and what leaves for the next stage.

  1. 01

    Input

    • 01.1Approved counter sample
    • 01.2Graded pattern and marker plan
    • 01.3Bulk fabric in the approved shade, and trims, checked and released
    • 01.4Cut plan by size and colour
  2. 02

    Process

    1. 01

      Fabric preparation

    2. 02

      Marker planning

    3. 03

      Cutting

    4. 04

      Bundling

    5. 05

      Stitching on parallel lines

    6. 06

      Finishing

  3. 03

    Output

    Finished garments for the full order quantity, made to the approved sample.

Why it matters

Volume only helps if every piece matches the approved sample, so the cut, the bundles and every line are set up from that one reference.

Cut, Sew & Bulk Production, specified

Cut, Sew & Bulk Production: what we do, your part, the check and the deliverable

What we do
  1. 01Prepare and spread fabric, plan markers and cut in bulk
  2. 02Bundle and ticket cut panels for the line
  3. 03Assemble on in-house and partner lines at the same time
  4. 04Press and finish garments for inspection
Buyer involvement
Progress through your named merchandiser, and visits to the Bhiwandi floor by appointment.
Quality check
Inline checks while garments are on the line, and an end-line inspection before finishing.
Deliverable
A finished lot, ready for final inspection and packing.

A style moving through the floor.

From the fabric roll to the stitching line: how a lay becomes bundles of panels that are sewn in the right order, from the right ply.
  1. Hands smoothing blue woven fabric unrolled from a bolt across a cutting table
    Fabric preparation. Representative photograph.

    01 / 06The cutting floor

    Fabric preparation

    Rolls are checked for shade, width and visible faults, relaxed where the fabric needs it, then spread ply on ply with the face and grain aligned.

    Why it matters A shade or width problem found after cutting cannot be undone.

  2. Cotton Checkered Shirt
    1. 01Pocket cut on the biasTurned on the marker, so the check runs diagonally
    2. 02A matching pairBoth pockets placed the same way
    3. 03Checks meet at the placketBoth fronts set on the same check line
    A checked cotton shirt from current production. On a check, the marker decides where every piece sits on the pattern.

    02 / 06The cutting floor

    Marker planning

    The pattern pieces for the size ratio are laid out on a marker to use the fabric with the least waste while keeping every piece on grain.

    Why it matters The marker decides fabric consumption, and with it a large part of the garment cost.

  3. A straight-knife cutting machine going through a stack of striped fabric on a cutting table
    Cutting. Representative photograph.

    03 / 06The cutting floor

    Cutting

    The lay is cut through every ply along the marker lines, with notches and small pieces cut for accuracy.

    Why it matters Every garment in the lay takes its shape from this cut.

  4. A stack of cut twill panels with raw, fraying edges, a hand squaring the pile
    Bundling. Representative photograph.

    04 / 06The cutting floor

    Bundling

    Cut pieces are grouped by size, colour and ply into bundles that move through the line together.

    Why it matters A bundle keeps a garment's pieces together and makes the work countable.

  5. Cutting room

    Ref. 913680

    Bundle ticket

    Style
    Cotton Checkered Shirt
    Size
    M
    Colour
    As approved
    Ply
    07

    Panels in the bundle, numbered by ply

    • Front07
    • Front07
    • Back07
    • Sleeve07
    • Sleeve07
    • Cuff07
    • Cuff07
    • Collar07
    • Pocket07
    • Pocket07

    One ply, one shade

    A bundle ticket for the same shirt. The style is real; the size, colour and ply entries are examples.

    05 / 06The cutting floor

    Identification

    Each bundle is ticketed with style, size, colour and ply, and pieces are numbered so a garment is sewn from panels cut from the same ply.

    Why it matters Panels from one ply share one shade; mixing plies is how a sleeve ends up a tone away from its body.

  6. Rows of industrial sewing machines with thread cones on our own stitching floor
    Our own stitching floor, where the bundles arrive in the order they will be sewn.

    06 / 06The cutting floor

    Movement to stitching

    Bundles go to value addition where the style calls for it, then to the stitching lines, in-house or at partner units.

    Why it matters Work reaches the line in the order it will be sewn.

Parallel capacity

Side by side, not one after another.

One order made on several lines at the same time instead of one after another: the in-house Bhiwandi floor and partner jobworker units each take a share of the same style, made to the same pattern, sample and standard.

On one lineOn one line, a large order is made piece after piece, and its delivery date follows from that line's pace.

On parallel linesSplit across several lines, the same order is made side by side, and the date follows from their combined output.

Illustration: the same order, as equal lots of one style. The lots and lines are a unit of the drawing, not a count of pieces, lines or days.
A large sewing hall with rows of operators at work on printed fabric
A bulk sewing hall: many lines at work at once. Representative photograph.

How a split order stays one programme

  1. 01

    One reference

    The approved sample, the graded pattern and the specification are fixed before any work is split.
  2. 02

    Split by quantity

    The order is allocated across the in-house Bhiwandi lines and the partner units engaged for the programme.
  3. 03

    Each unit, its operation

    Each unit receives the pattern, the sample and the construction for the operation it performs. Tech packs and specifications are not circulated to the wider floor or to partner units beyond the operation being performed.
  4. 04

    One inspection standard

    Output from every unit is inspected to the same agreed AQL as the in-house lines.
  5. 05

    One programme

    Passed garments are packed to one buyer specification and shipped as one programme.

One reference out, one standard back.

The operational network: what goes out to each line, and what has to come back before garments are packed.

  • One reference to BhiwandiThe approved sample, the graded pattern and the specification
  • One reference to 30+ partner unitsThe pattern, the sample and the construction for the operation each unit performs
  • Bhiwandi to Agreed AQLFinished garments, inspected to the agreed AQL
  • 30+ partner units to Agreed AQLFinished garments, inspected to the same agreed AQL as the in-house lines
  • Agreed AQL to One programmePacked to one buyer specification and shipped together
How an order is split is confirmed per programme, against your delivery window.

Bring the volume. We plan the lines.

Share styles, fabrics and target quantities. We reply to most enquiries within one working day.