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How is a style sampled before bulk?

Made in cloth before it is made in bulk.

02 · What it isMaking the style in cloth before bulk: a sequence of samples, each answering one question, until fit, fabric and finish are signed off.
Discuss a programme
  1. 01Reference
  2. 02Pattern
  3. 03Proto
  4. 04Fit
  5. 05RevisionBack to fit until the fit is agreed
  6. 06Salesman sample
  7. 07ApprovalCounter-sample round repeats until approved
  8. 08Bulk

Input, process, output.

What arrives at sampling & prototyping, what happens to it, and what leaves for the next stage.

  1. 01

    Input

    • 01.1Development pattern and construction notes
    • 01.2Sample fabric, or the nearest available quality
    • 01.3Trims, or stand-ins until bulk trims arrive
    • 01.4Measurement chart with tolerances
  2. 02

    Process

    1. 01

      Proto

    2. 02

      Fit

    3. 03

      Revision

    4. 04

      Grading

    5. 05

      Salesman samples

    6. 06

      Counter sample

    7. 07

      Approval

  3. 03

    Output

    An approved counter sample: fit, fabric and finish locked before bulk cutting.

Why it matters

The approved sample is the reference every bulk garment is cut, sewn and inspected against. A sampling cycle that settles fit, fabric and finish is what makes the bulk repeatable.

Sampling & Prototyping, specified

Sampling & Prototyping: what we do, your part, the check and the deliverable

What we do
  1. 01Cut and sew protos from the development pattern
  2. 02Correct the pattern from your fit comments
  3. 03Grade the approved pattern across your size range
  4. 04Make salesman samples for range presentations
  5. 05Repeat the counter-sample round until the style is signed off
Buyer involvement
You give fit comments, approve or reject each round and sign off the counter sample, against the sampling schedule set with the quotation.
Quality check
Every sample is measured against the measurement chart and checked for construction before it leaves the sampling room.
Deliverable
The approved reference sample and the graded pattern set that bulk is cut from.

Eight stages, one approved sample.

Step through the journey. Each stage answers one question before the next sample is cut.

01 Reference

Reference

The starting point: a tech pack, a sketch or a reference garment, with the target quantity.

Reference: what happens

We do
Read it, list the open questions, and confirm a sampling schedule with the quotation.
You do
Send the brief and answer the open questions.
Output
A brief with nothing left to guess.
Girls Checkered Knee Length Frock, the reference style on a buyer's tech pack

Tech pack

Reference style

Style
Girls Checkered Knee Length Frock
Reference
917596
Fabric
Viscose
Pattern
Checkered
Construction
Woven

Shared with target quantities

The reference arrives as a tech pack, a sketch or a garment. Drawn here from a real style.

02 Pattern

Pattern

The first pattern, drafted in the base size.

Pattern: what happens

We do
Draft the pattern in-house from the tech pack, the sketch or the reference.
Output
A base-size pattern.
Kraft-paper and white paper pattern pieces hanging from hooks along a long rail against a white wall
Paper patterns. Representative photograph.

03 Proto

Proto

The first sample, in the closest available fabric, to prove the pattern and the construction.

Proto: what happens

We do
Cut and sew the proto from the base-size pattern.
You do
Review the shape, the proportions and the construction.
Output
A measured proto.

04 Fit

Fit

A sample in the right fabric, judged for ease, balance, length and how it sits on the body.

Fit: what happens

We do
Make the fit sample and record the measurements it was made to.
You do
Return fit comments.
Output
Fit comments against a known sample.
Cotton Checkered Shirt
  1. 01Collar
  2. 02ChestAcross the body, below the armhole
  3. 03Pocket position
  4. 04Sleeve to cuff
  5. 05Body lengthTo the hem at the centre
A checked cotton shirt from current production. The points are the usual places a sample is measured; the chart and tolerances are yours.

05 Revision

Revision

The pattern corrected from the fit comments, with a new sample where the change is significant.

Revision: what happens

We do
Correct the pattern and remake the sample until the fit is agreed.
You do
Confirm the corrections.
Output
A revised pattern and sample.

06 Salesman sample

Salesman sample

Samples made in a small quantity for range presentations and selling before bulk is confirmed.

Salesman sample: what happens

We do
Make salesman samples in the agreed fabric, colours and sizes.
You do
Present the range and confirm quantities.
Output
Samples for your range review.

07 Approval

Approval

The counter sample, in bulk fabric and trims, signed off for production.

Approval: what happens

We do
Make the counter sample for your sign-off.
You do
Sign off fit, fabric and finish.
Output
A signed-off counter sample.

08 Bulk

Bulk

Production starts from the approved sample and the graded pattern.

Bulk: what happens

We do
Plan the marker, cut and release work to the lines, with the approved sample as the reference at every check.
Output
Bulk production against the approved reference.
A straight-knife cutting machine going through a stack of striped fabric on a cutting table
Bulk cutting. Representative photograph.

Related

Send the reference. Get the schedule.

Share styles, fabrics and target quantities. We reply to most enquiries within one working day.

Request a quotation info@anmolgarments.in