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What does AQL actually mean?

How garment QA works

Quality control in garment production is a sequence of checks, each placed where a defect is cheapest to catch. Here is the sequence, and what AQL means.

Anmol JournalGuide

Guide 4 of 10

Topic
Quality
Reading time
2 minutes
Sections
05
Figures
02

01Built in line, not found at the end

A defect found at final inspection is found late: the garment is finished, packed and one of thousands. Inline inspection checks work at the machines while the style is being stitched, so a fault is caught at the operation that causes it.

End-line inspection then checks garments as they come off the line, before finishing and packing.

Fig. 01Quality checkpoints from the line to dispatch

  1. 01

    Inline inspection

  2. 02

    Measurement audit

  3. 03

    Fit check

  4. 04

    End-line inspection

  5. 05

    Final random inspection

  6. 06

    Packing check

The checkpoints in sequence, from the stitching line to dispatch.What each checkpoint looks at

02Measurement and fit audits

A garment can be well sewn and still wrong. Measurement audits compare finished garments with the measurement chart and its tolerances, size by size; fit checks confirm the style still matches the approved sample.

Measurement is where grading problems show first: a point that is out in one size is often out in the next, so an audit reads across sizes as well as within one.

Boys Checkered Shirt
Fig. 02Boys checkered shirt in cotton. On a check, inspection also looks at whether the pattern meets cleanly across the placket and the seams.View style 653586

A defect found at final inspection is found late: the garment is finished, packed and one of thousands.

03AQL, explained

AQL, the acceptance quality limit, is a sampling rule. Instead of checking every piece, the inspector draws a random sample whose size depends on the lot size, and the lot passes or fails on the number of defects found in it.

The AQL is agreed between buyer and manufacturer, often with different limits for major and minor defects. A lower AQL allows fewer defects in the sample before the lot fails.

04Classifying defects

Defects are usually graded critical, major or minor. A critical defect makes a garment unsafe or unsellable; a major one is likely to cause a return; a minor one is unlikely to affect sale or use.

The definitions belong in the buyer's quality manual, because the same flaw can be major for one retailer and minor for another.

05One standard on every line

When a programme runs on several lines at once, the risk is that each line drifts towards its own standard. The answer is one reference sample, one measurement chart, one AQL and one QA department checking all of it.

That is how parallel production adds capacity without adding standards: the lines multiply, the reference stays single.

Start with what you have.

Send a tech pack, a sketch or a reference garment, with your target quantity and delivery window.